Hat-shaping apparatus.



L. STEVENS. HAT SHAFING APPARATUS. ArucATloN me www. 19u;

Patented Mm. 12, 1918..

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'LESLIE STEVENS, OF GLEN RIDGE, NEW JERSEY;S

HAT-SHAPING APPARATUS. "I

Application filed May 16, 1917.

17 b all whom, t may Concern.'

Be it known that I, LESLIE STEVENS, a citizen of the United States, residing at Glen Ridge, in the county of Essex and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Hat-Shaping Apparatus, fully described and represented in the following-specication and the accompanying drawings, forming a part of Y mensions and relationships are adhered to the same.

This invention relates t0 improvements in apparatus for shaping hats.

In the manufacture of hats it is necessary for a manufacturer to be able to make hats of various shapes in many different sizes.

The variations both in shapes and sizes involve changes both in the shape of the crown and in the shape of the brim and 'in` the dies or shaping devices on which the hats are shaped. In manyv cases, however, a difference in shape may be only in the crown or only in the brim. The expense involved in providing a complete die for every variation in size and shape of hat to be produced would be very great, and to reduce this expense in equipment two part dies having separate brim and crown shaping portions have been employed, such die parts being formed tobe combined in different ways so that each die part could be employed in pro-V` ducing number of different shapes. Diiiculties have been experienced, however, in properly fitting the die parts, especially in fitting them so as to avoid the formation of leave marks upon the finished hat, and the employment of two part dies has been accomplished heretofore only by the use of hand-fitted die parts which have to be constructed together and accurately finished with reference to each other so as to make possible a proper assembly.

It is a primary object of the present invention to simplify and improve the construction of hat shaping forms or dies made up of interchangeable die parts, by which the number of shapes produced is increased in proportion to theV number of die parts employed. An important feature in the accomplishment of this result resides in the manufacture of all die parts and the die seat in accordance with a specified standard whereby the various int(-n'changeable 4die Specication of Letters Patent.

, bushing; cracks vin the assembled die which would Patented Mar. 12, 1918.

Serial No. 169,072.

in all cases.

Other objects of the invention are to provide sectional dies so constructed that they may be quickly and accurately assembled in proper relationship; to provide die parts which can be accurately fitted together so as to avoid leaving cracks or spaces which will produce marks on the finished hats, and to produce sectional dies in which each part of the die is directly supported upon the die seat or other rigid part during the subjecting of the hat to pressure, whereby lthe stresses produced are properly taken up andV the die parts adequately heated. Other objects of the invention will appear from the following detail description of certain approved embodiments of the invention which I'have chosen for purposes of illustration.

In the accompanying drawings which form a part of this specification Figure l is a sectional plan view on line 1 1 of Fig. 2, showing a two-part die mounted in a supplementary die seat or Fig. 2 is a transverse vertical section on line 2 2 0f Fig. l;

Figs. 3 ande are enlarged detail perspec tive views of portions ofthe brim die and crown die, respectively, showing the centern ing pin construction; y

Fig. 5 is a vertical sectional view of a modified form of two-part die; and i Fig. 6`is a vertical sectional view through the die seat of a press showing the crown die illustrated in Fig. 5 mounted therein but provided with a brim die of modified form from that shown in Fig. 5.

For the purpose of illustrating the invention, I have shown the same as embodied in dies of the character commonly employed in hydraulic hat presses of the type in which the hat, after blocking, is laid in a heated metal die and subjected. to hydraulic pressure applied to the inside of the hat crown and under surface of the brim by means of a shaped rubber bag fitting the inside of the hat and into and behind which water is forced under high pressure. Presses of this character are well known in the art and my invention finds particular utility as applied tov dies for` use in such presses, but the invention is not limited to such use and may be employed in. connection with hat shaping dies or blocks cf any character to which itis applicable.

Referring to the drawings in detail, and particularly to Fi gs. 1 to 4 inclusive, 1 designates a supplementary die seat orbushing which is adapted to be employed in connection with a conica-ily recessed die seat of the form commonly employedV in hydraulic hat presses. Suche a die seat is illustrated at 2 in 6, and comprises a steam chest haring a cone shaped recess 3 in the top thereof. The supplementary seat 1 is adapted to be placed in this recess, it being provided wit webs 41- having inclined walls 5 adapted to fit the conical wallof the recess 3. The supplementary seat 1 has formed in it a. recess 6 adapted to receive a crown die, and around this recess extends a flange 7, having a flat upper surface 8. The bottom of the recess 6 is formed with a flat die supporting surface 9, the surfaces 8 and 9 being accurately formed with a standard measured distance between them. For convenience of manufacture the surface 9 may be fo-rmed slightly raised from the surrounding portion of the bottom of the recess, as shown. The crown die 10 fits loosely in the recess 6 and has a true surface 11 adapted to rest on the supporting` surface 9. The top of the die is also carefully finished to provide a surface 12 in a plane definitely related to the plane of the surface 11 and parallel thereto and at a standaii'd distance therefrom, so that the die will be of a predetermined height between its surfaces 11 and 12. lt is also desirably provided with a narrow flange 13 to extend a little way over the flange but out of contact therewith so that the die is supported entirely by its lower end resting upon the surface 9. rlhe crown die has a suitable shaping recess 14; therein shaped to produce the desired shape of crown. Y

The brim die part, or brim die, 15, is in the form of a ring formed to fit around the flange portion 13 of the crown die and itself having an inwardly directed horizontal flange 16, the lower vsurface of which is accurately formed and adapted to fit closely upon the top surface 12 of the crown die. A central opening 17 in this brim die conforms accurately in size and shape with the top of the recess 111 in the crown die, and the upper or outer surface 18 of the brim die is suitably shaped to produce the desired form of brim. In the construction illusfrated, the brim die is provided with a fiat upper surface so as to produce a fiat brimmed hat. In order to properly locate and support the brim die on the crown die, the outer surface of the flange 13 is most desirably inclined and provided with aplurality of low projecting lugs or lands 19, the outer walls of which are adapted to be engaged by the inclined walls 20 of projections or lands 21 formed on the brim die. Gbviously, the dies could be formed with continuous engaging surfaces if desired, but from a manufacturing point of view itis easier to secure a good fit by utilizing the spaced projections or lands. lt is also not essential that the engaging surfaces be inclined, although this is best as it facilitates the placing of the brim die in position and secures a better lit and support of the brim die. The fit of the surfaces 19 and 20 should be such as to permit the flange 16 of the brim die to seat firmly on the top surface 12 of the crown die. The lower surface 22 of the brim die should be accurately formed and spaced a predetermined distance from the lower surface of the flange 16 which contacts with the surface 12, and this spacing should be such that when the flange 16 rests on the surface 12, the crown die being seated on the surface 9 of the supplementary die seat, the under surface 22 will be just outk of actual contact with the top surface 8 of the die seat flange 7. rlhis is important as it insures that the flange 16 will rest firmly on. the surface 12 and will always be in close contact therewith when the dies are hat which would result from there being any space at the joint between these parts. fit the saine time the surface 22 is so close to the surface 8 that when pressure is applied by the upper member of the press a Vslight springing or yieldingof the parts will bring the surface 22 in direct bearing contact with the surface 8 so as to adequately support the brim die and take undue strain off'of the crown die. with the surface 8 is also desirable as increasing the conduction of heat to the brim die. The brim die will thus normally be supported solely by its inner flange 16 resting on the upper end of the crown die, but will under working pressure be additionally supported by `its outer portion coming into bearing contactv with a supporting surface which in the construction shown in Figs. 1 to l and Fig. 6 is provided by the die seat member.

For insuring accurate positioning of the brim die circumferentially with relation to the crown die so as to bring the central opening in the former into accurate regislhe Contact of the surface 22V ter with the recess 14E in the latter, a pin and socket construction such as illustrated most clearly in Figs. 3 and 4 is most desirably employed. As shown, one of the lugs 21 of the brim die has formed in it an inver-ted V-shaped socket or recess 23, while in the corresponding land on the crown die a laterally progecting pin 24 is accurately located. The socket 23 Ahasv wide mouth so as 4to slip readily over the pin and make the assembly of the parts easy, the socket then narrowing down to the width of the pin, thus guiding the parts to proper position while being assembled and finally locating them witn the desired accuracy. Preferably y the pin is located well up on the land, the socket of a corresponding depth, as in this way the mouth of the socket may be made relatively quite wide. The ease with which the parts may be assembled is a matter of much practical importance, as in the actual use of dies of this character it is fre quently nccessaryto assemble different die parts dozens or even hundreds of times a da y and every second'saved in this operation is therefore of importance.

The use of the die seat member ha ing certain fixed or standard dimensions in combination with crown dies and brim dies, having certain correspondingly xed or standard dimensions, makes possible the ready manufacture ofcrown dies and brim dies for any desired hat shapes and sizes which may be interchangeably combined. The construction which I have described above I find particularly adapted for this purpose, and with this construction it is possible to secure the desired interchangeability combined with comparative cheap ness of manufacture. This results largely from the fact that only such dimensions are made standard and only such surfaces are used Vas reference surfaces as can be most readily finished ormachined to accurate size. Thus the supplementary: die seat or bushing is provided with but two accu- Arately finished surfaces, namely, the flat parallel surfaces 8 and 9 which may be easily finished true and located a definito standard distance apart. The correct positioning of the crown die with relation to the supplementary die seat accomplished by the formation of a single flat surface 11 on the bottom of the crown die which rests upon the surface 9. It is unnecessary to make the side walls of the crown die fit the side walls of the recess in the bushing, and the lower wall of the flange of the crown die is so located as to lie somewhat above the. surface 8 so that it need not be finished. 'The only other parts of the crown die, other than the crown shaping recess itself, which need to be accurately nished and located are the top 'surface 12 and the surfaces of Vwith crowns different only in height.

the low projections or lands 19. These are the positioning surfaces for the brim die and are located so that the surface 12 shall bc a standard predetermined distance from the bottom surface 11, which distance may vary for crownsof different heights. The

correct positioning of the brim die is accomplished by the proper finishing and location of the under surface of the iiange 16, which must be adapted to fit uponthe surface 12 at the top of the crowndie, and the surfaces of the inwardly projectinglugs or 'of the'crown die and the distance between the surfaces 8 and 9 of the die seat. In this way, as the distance between the surfaces 8 and 9 of the supplementary die vseat is a constant, it is possible to secure in all cases the slight amount of clearance desired between the surfaces 22 and 8 before the pressure is applied. The proper circumferential registration of the crown and brim dies is secured by the correct location of the pin in the crown die with relation to its notch in the brim die. By forming the fitting surfaces of the various die parts in accordance with a known andstandard scale of dimensions it is possible to supply a die part at any time which may be fitted accurately with die parts previously manufactured. Thus it is possible for a hat maker` to order new die parts at any time from the die maker with the assurance that they may be employed in connection with the die parts which he already has.

By varying the thickness of the flange 16 onthe brim die, which rests upon the top of the crown die and the innerwall 17 of wliich'forms in effect a continuation of the wall of the recess 14, the same crown 'die may be utilized in producing hats of various heights of crown as well as of different widths and conformation of brim. Frequently hats of a certain general style are made with brims of different widths and This may be accomplished by utilizing with the single crown die a number of brim dies of various widths, the thickness of their flanges 16 being proportioned to the width of brim to be produced. A thicker flange 16 has the effect of increasing thev depth ofthe recess 14, thus producing a hat having a higher crown. Y VReferring to Figs. 5 and 6, I hai/*chere illustrated a modification of my invention in which the supplemental die seat is not employed, the die members being formed to fit directly into the conical recess 3 of the die seat of the press. Fig. 5 shows a crown die 30 shaped to fit the recess 3 and having in it a shaping recess 14 to receive and shape the crown of the hat. The crown die is provided with an upper portion 31 having a tapered outer surface 32 and an accurately formed top surface 12. A positioning )in 33 is also provided projecting from the upper horizontal surface 34C of an outwardly projecting part or flange of the die. is a brim die which has an inwardly projecting flange 16 adapted to extend over and seat on the surface 12 at the top of the crown die, as in the form of the invention previously described. rllhe brim die is made of such thicknessthat its lower surface 36 clears the surface 3a so to leave a. narrow space between the two, and thus insures that the lower surface of the flange 16 of the brim die shall at all times rest directly upon the surface 12, the space being desirably so small, however, that under operating pressure the outer portions of the brim die will be supported by bearing on the crown die surface 34:. The brim die is also provided with a recess into which the pin 33 enters so as to hold the die members in the proper registration. The brim die 35 is shown as provided with a conveXly curved outer surface 37 which is adapted to produce a curved brim.

1n Fig. 6 the crown die 30 is shown as provided with a different brim die Ll0 which has a flat upper surface Zl1 adapted to produce a flat brim. rlhe flange 16 of the brim die 10 is also somewhat thicker than the flange of the brim die 35 so that the hat produced will have a slightly higher crown. The brim die 40 is also shown as provided with a` conical surface 12 adapted to normally lie just out of contact with the conical surface of the recess 3, the space between these surfaces being so small that when pressure is applied by the upper member of the press the surface 12 will be forced into contact with the surface of the die seat. This direct contact affords direct support for the outer part of the brim die, relieves the strain on the crown die and also assistsin the transference of heat from the heated seat directly to the brim die. At the same time the fact that until pressure is applied there is a space between the surface Ll2 and the die seat, insures that the primary point of support 'of the brim die shall be upon the surface 12 so that there can be no crack or opening between the flange 16 and the surface 12.

It will be understood that my invention may be practised by other means than those particularly 'set forth herein and that various modifications may be resorted to; for example, while the dies are shown as designed to be placed in inverted position on the die seat of a press, it will be understood that they may be otherwise supported or positioned. l, therefore, intend to cover my invention broadly in whatever structu 'al form its principles may be embodied.

What is claimed is:

1. rllhe combination of a crown die having a crown shaping recess there-in and formed with a bottom seating face to rest on a flat die seat and an upper seating face, and a brim die formed to seat on the upper seating face of the crown die to be normally supported solely thereby and having an outer seating face at a standardized distance below the face which seats on the crown die to seat on a secondary supporting face under operating pressure.

2. rIhe combination with a crown die having a flange at its upper end, said flange having a. plurality of lands projecting beyond the surface thereof, the surfaces of said lands being formed true, of a brim die adapted to fit over said crown die and having surfaces engaging the true surfaces of said lands, and a projection extending laterally from one of said dies interlocking with a recess in the other die for holding said dies in register.

3. The combination with a crown die having a positioning projection extending laterally therefrom, of a brim die encircling said crown die, said brim die having a socket formed in its inner face opening inward and rdownward and adapted to receive said proj ection for holding said brim die and crown die in circumferential registration.

4;. The combination with a crown die having a positioning pin projecting laterally therefrom, of a brim die adapted to encircle said crown die, said brim die having an inverted V -shaped socket formed in its inner face to receive said pin as the brim die is placed on the crown die, the lower end of which socket is substantially wider than the diameter of said pin, whereby when said brim die is placed over said crown die said pin will enter between the walls of said socket and said dies will be brought into and retained in circumferential registration.

5. The combination with a crown die having its upper end formed to serve as a seat .for a brim die, of a brim die formed to seat on the crown die and to encircle the upper end thereof, one of said dies having a positioning pin projecting laterally therefrom, and the other of said dies having a V-shaped socket formed in a face thereof to receive said pin, said socket opening vin the direction toward the coacting die when the brim' die is seated on the crown die and in the direction of the relative approaching movement in seating the brim die on the crown d 1e. and the entrance end of said socket being substantially wider than the diameter of said pin, whereby when said brim die is placed over said crown die said pin will enter between the walls of said socket and said dies will be brought into and retained in circumferential registration.

6. A crown die of the character described, having a brim die positioning pin projecting laterally therefrom.

7 A crown die of the character described having an outwardly projecting fiange at the top thereof, said flange having atapered outer wall provided with spaced lands.

8.- A brim die of the character described, having a portion adapted to encircle a crown die, said brim die Abeing formed with an inverted V-shaped socket in the inner surface of said portion thereof.

9. rlhe combination of a die seat member, a crown die seated thereon, and a brim die seated on said crown die and normally supported solely thereby and having an outer part normally lying close to but out of contact with the die seat member and adapted to be brought into contact therewith under pressure to additionally support the brim die.

l0. The combination of a die seat member having a central recess formed at the bottom with a fiat supporting surface and having an outwardly extending surface about the top of said recess and parallel to the supporting surface at the bottom of the recess, a crown die mounted in said recess and resting on the bottom thereof, and a brim die comprising an annular body portion surrounding the upper end of the crown die.

and extending outward over .the outwardly extending surface of the die seat member and having an inwardly projecting flange resting on top of the crown die, the Vdifference between the height of the crown die.

and the distance between the under surfaces of the flange and body part of the brim die being just slightly greater than the distance from the supporting surface at the bottom of the recess to the upper outwardly extending surface of the die seat member.

l1. The combination with a die seat member having a recess therein having a fixed bottom formed with a flat supporting surface, of a crown die fitting loosely in said recess and located with relation to said seat member by engagement of a flat surface on its lower end with the flat bottom surface of said recess, said crown die having its upper end projecting above the top of said recess in said seat member, the upper surface of said crown die being finished, and a brim die supported on said crown die and located by the engagement of a surface thereof with the upper finished surface of said crown die,

faceof said die seat member and formed to be brought into Contact therewith under pressure tov additionally support the `brim die.

1:2. A crown die having a crown shaping recess therein and having top and bottoni finished bearing surfaces and a plurality of finished outwardly facing spaced bearing surfaces for supporting a brim form formed around the outside of theV die near the open end thereof.

13. A crown die having a crown shaping recess therein and having top and bottom finished bearing surfaces, a plurality of spaced finished bearing surfaces formed around the outside of the dienear the open end thereof, and a positioning member projecting laterally from the die near the same l -body part and an inwardly directed fiange,V

the body part and fiange having a Vcontinuous upper surface adapted to shape the hat brim, the under surface of said flange and the under surface of said body part being finished as parallel plane surfaces of reference, and the body part of said die having a plurality of inwardly facing spaced inclined bearing surfaces and having formed in it an inverted V-shaped positioning notch.

16. A brim die comprising an annular body portion andl an inwardly directed flange, the upper surface of said body portion and flange being formed to shape a hat brim, the body portion having an inverted V-shaped positioning notch formed in its inner face and extending upward from the bottom edge thereof.

17. rlhe combination of a die seat member having two upwardly facing supportingper supporting face of the die seat member, my hand in the presence of two subscribing the specied faces of each member being Witnesses. Vspaced fr standardized distance epa-rt to sew w, 7 cure interchangeabiiity of such members LESLIE sind ENS' with others having the same standardized Witnesses: spaced faces. DAVID C. LEWIS,

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set A. L. KENT.

Gopies of this patent may be obtained for wie cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C. 

